Our magnificent hotel in Venice. For the first time we stayed in a different part of the city a distance from the main square and it was so nice to be away from the summer tourist crowd.
The best laid plans.
The last time I was in Venice was with my eldest daughter, Brooke. She was on a semester away from St Lawrence University studying painting in Cortona with the University of Georgia. I was in France and flew to Venice to meet her for our first International getaway It was November and Venice was empty of tourists. It was magical, wintery, soulful, quiet, and energetic. The waters were rising, a situation that the Venetian call Aqua Alta, and we felt part of something only few outsiders see. Brooke and I had the city to ourselves. It felt like it was just our little travel duo and the residents of this magical port. We walked everywhere all day, exploring and discovering. It was on this visit that I first visited the Peggy Guggenheim Collection. I was horrified. Yes, horrified, saddened that I waited until my 3rd visit to Venice to go there. I now tell everyone who visits Venice for the first time...”Do not miss the Peggy Guggenheim museum!!”
One of the things I was most excited about regarding this trip was bringing Don to visit my now favorite museum. I purchased tickets online for our first full day in the city. I was not counting on the comfortable bed, blackout curtains, and our being such sleepy souls. We awoke after our ticketed 11 a.m. time.
We quick-ish-ly got our acts together. Comfortable walking sneakers- check. Cross body bag- check. Adventuresome spirits - check, check, check. And off we went. Don and I wandered all over Venice, meandering our way through the fish market, crossing canals by bridge, stopping to look at the gorgeous architecture, window shopping, and having breakfast. When we finally arrived at the Peggy Guggenheim Museum they welcomed us with open arms and honored our tickets from hours earlier.
The Peggy Guggenheim Museum is the personal collection of modern art housed in Peggy’s home in Venice. The property, located in the wonderful Dorsoduro section of Venice, is an 18th century palace set majestically on the Grand Canal. Ms Guggenheim lived in this home for 30 years and you can easily understand the layout while in this magnificent architectural treasure.
Peggy acquired most of this collection between 1938 and 1946, it includes works by Calder, Kandinsky, Picasso, Pollack, and Klee, among many other magnificently talented artists of the time.
This museum is my favorite in the world (followed closely behind by the Picasso museum in Paris.) Visiting this home on the Grand Canal is spectacular. Seeing Peggy’s personal collection as she enjoyed it fills my heart.
Don’t miss the small but fascinationing tombstones while you are there and on your way to the museum cafe for a cold drink.
If you are looking for lunch after the museum and want to avoid the crowds and tourists I suggest the Hotel Messner. The Hotel Messner is a small spot down a nearby canal. I saw the flags and beautiful vines growing up the building and walked down to take a peek. There I found local Italian business people avoiding the tourists and enjoying wonderful classic Italian lunches. We sat canal side and had a tasty lunch and superb service.
My favorite house on my way to our next adventure.
After lunch we made our way to St. Mark’s square where I was able to find my way back through the side streets to my second favorite spot in Venice. This is just a small special moment, a tiny treasure that is not on other tourists’ lists of things to do. In the basement down below the lovely Church of San Zaccaria, is a statue of the Virgin Mary and a crypt. For centuries this treasure was sitting hidden below this very large church. Venice, a man made set of islands has been built on and built on for centuries. A 3 euro entrance into a tiny church museum to the right of the alter will include a staircase under the church and the ability to visit my favorite Mary.
A big thank you to my sister-in-law Lucinda for bringing us to this church for the first time several years ago.
For dinner we dined at Algiubagiò a very well recognized waterfront restaurant on the sea. (They have been awarded a Michelin Star previously). Our waterfront seats looked out at the mysterious and magical cemetery island. Our service was delightful and the food was very good. I particularly enjoyed our Venetian sashimi appetizer. We wandered back to our hotel Ca Sagredo through Venetian residential neighborhoods.
